For most owners, that may be the best choice. ![]() There are "full-fluid-exchange" methods that require very elaborate and expensive specialty tools. I realize that this thread is about the notion of "changing transmission fluid" generally. So always inspect the fluid look at the color ,even the smell and of course look for any particles traces or dirt and if it looks bad or burnt for $30-$40 i rather change it than repair a transmission.īTW smother is a two way road the smoother the shifts the more friction is between clutches and more wear that's why you see on heavy equipment,buses and race cars with autos the shifts are rough and sometimes jumpy because they are not built to be smooth to increase durability otherwise the clutches would disintegrate in no time.When you take lets say a th400 for upgrade for heavy duty or race applications the technician modify the valve body so the transmission shift at full or near full pressure so eliminating or reducing slippage to withstand the abuse of high HP engines,it have the downside that shift are rough. Maintenance intervals are the key to a healthy car don't trust those 45k-60k miles intervals that is way to long.Some fluids degrade just standing still because moisture etc. I read that based on labs test that Toyota WS is weak compared to others OEM AT fluids ,but to each its own not going to start a debate on that. It's a very simple DIY project and much easier than a regular ol' engine oil/filter change. I would definitely use only Toyota's ATF Type T - IV fluid. The 4th drain-and-fill can be done at some later time and is not near as important as the first three. With the 3rd drain-and-fill the fluid will take on a much more red color indicating that only 22% of the old dirty fluid remains and 78% of the fluid is clean and fresh. After the 2nd drain-and-fill the fluid will look much more red as only 36% of the old dirty fluid remains. 60 = 13%Īfter your 1st drain-and-fill the fluid will still look very brownish. 60 = 22%Ĥth drain-and-fill will leave 13% dirty fluid remaining. ![]() 60 = 36%ģrd drain-and-fill will leave 22% dirty fluid remaining. ![]() 60 = 60%Ģnd drain-and-fill will leave 36% dirty fluid remaining. The transmission's torque converter will retain 60% of the transmission fluid.ġst drain-and-fill will leave 60% dirty fluid remaining. It's not necessary.and worthless to change it.Įach drain-and-fill you will be able to drain about 3.7 quarts (or 40%) of the transmission's total fluid capacity of 9.3 quarts. I would definitely not drop the pan,and thus not change the filter. Then, I would do a 3rd drain-and-fill within 2,500 miles, and a 4th drain-and-fill within another 2,500 miles. I would do two drain-and-fills back-to-back with at least 100 miles of driving between the two drain-and-fills.
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