Pre-drilling the holes will also prevent the wood from splitting too. Be sure to use only 1" screws, so that they wont penetrate to the glass. When finished, the wood piece will only be visible from outside. Order your new blinds as an inside mount and mount the brackets to the FRONT of the 2 x 2 with the top of the brackets even with the top of the wood. Now screw through the L-bracket tab into the side of the window opening. Position the 2 x 2 all the way back against the glass. Measure so the TOP of the 2 x 2 is at the height you want the shades(bottom of the arch). At each end, mount a small L-bracket so that when placed into the window opening, the tab is facing down. Cut a 2 x 2 to exact width of the opening of your window. You mentioned the depth of the window is 5 3/4" so this will work great. When doing a side mount (aka end mount) with these shades, you are forced to mount a metal L-bracket to each side of the window opening, pointing towards each other, and then nut & bolt the shade's mounting brackets to them facing properly towards you.įYI: This type of mounting would also require a slightly additional deduction from your overall ordered width to allow for the thickness of the L-brackets at each end.Īnd YES, end mounting this type of product IS a pain, and DOES look makeshift, since the L-brackets/nuts & bolts are visible when finished. This means the brackets cannot be mounted *first* and the wood support then mounted onto them. Well, each of these use a mounting bracket that has holes facing up or to the back, NOTHING to the sides. She mentioned "sheer shades", which I take to mean something like Silhouette/Shangri-la/Vienna type shades. While I like the idea above using the wood, and can picture it working fine for some things, the problem is with the shades she is interested in.
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